Making sense of Erzurum

At noon we arrived Erzurum. Artvin was an inviting blend of secularism and religiosity. I did hang out with local boys, we went to Kafkasör Yaylası, had a BBQ, drank some. Some were fasting some were not. We did break iftar together. I was told Artvin was called “little Moscow” in the old times, as … Read more