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A weekend in Diyarbakır (Amed) (and Mardin)

I was invited to a wedding and since I had time I said why not. The whole weekend was intense, I met some really good people who showed me around. This was, in fact, the third time I was in Diyarbakır -thank Swarm I know the exact dates in 2011 and 2015) but this was the first I had a better grasp of the city. This trip was also sad in some respects. The historical Sur, old town, is completely destroyed. I had wondered in there last time in 2015 but after the fierce fightings in 2016, the whole district was destroyed. Parts of the district is still closed to the public and a few quietly ugly supposedly buildings are built but most parts are still barren.

Sheikh Matar Mosque or Sheikh Mutahhar Mosque is a historical mosque in Diyarbakır, Turkey, best known for its unique minaret based on four columns, dubbed the Four-legged Minaret. You see it on the left-hand side. That barren area was once full of houses…
The entrance to parts of Suriçi is closed to the public. This is from the Four-legged Minaret section.
This is the famous four-legged Minaret where Tahir Elçi was killed. A very upsetting incident.
Bullet holes in the narrow street where Mr. Elçi was killed.

I have also seen the street where Gaffar Okan, a beloved police chief- which is a rare thing in Kurdish cities, was assassinated. The killers- a Kurdish Islamist gang- are allegedly connected to the Turkish deep state. We may never know the truth…

Well, the famous Diyarbakır breakfast…
I have stopped by a “Dengbej house.” Dengbej refers to a musician who performs traditional Kurdish folk songs. More here
I have stopped by Mardin’s Dara ruins, too. I have seen it before. But why not to see it again?

And the Dara “dungeon.” It is actually not a dungeon but a cistern.

And why not stop by the Mardin city center to have a cup of Menengiç coffee?

 

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